Wednesday, 15 January 2020

More Viking History

A brief history of the Vikings

Invaders, predators, barbarians – the Vikings are often portrayed merely as one-dimensional warriors whose achievements include little more than plundering and raiding. But from where did the Vikings originate and were they really violent, godless pagans? Here, historian Philip Parker explains the real history of the Viking world…

Coins depicting Viking longships

Coins depicting Viking longships

In 793, terror descended on the coast of Northumbria as armed raiders attacked the defenceless monastery of St Cuthbert on Lindisfarne. The terrified monks watched helplessly as the invaders made off with a haul of treasure and a clutch of captives. It was the first recorded raid by the Vikings, seaborne pirates from Scandinavia who would prey on coastal communities in north-western Europe for more than two centuries and create for themselves a reputation as fierce and pitiless warriors.

That image was magnified by those who wrote about the Viking attacks – in other words, their victims. The Anglo-Saxon cleric Alcuin of York wrote dramatically of the Lindisfarne raid that the “church was spattered with the blood of the priests of God, despoiled of all its ornaments… given as a prey to pagan peoples” and subsequent (mainly Christian) writers and chroniclers lost few opportunities to demonise the (mainly pagan) Vikings.

Yet, though they undeniably carried out very destructive and violent attacks, from small-scale raids against churches to major campaigns involving thousands of warriors, the Vikings formed part of a complex and often sophisticated Scandinavian culture. As well as raiders they were traders, reaching as far east as the rivers of Russia and the Caspian Sea; explorers, sending ships far across the Atlantic to land on the coastline of North America five centuries before Columbus; poets, composing verse and prose sagas of great power, and artists, creating works of astonishing beauty.

When and where did the Vikings originate?

The Vikings originated in what is now Denmark, Norway and Sweden (although centuries before they became unified countries). Their homeland was overwhelmingly rural, with almost no towns. The vast majority earned a meagre living through agriculture, or along the coast, by fishing. Advances in shipping technology in the 7th and 8th centuries meant that boats were powered by sails rather than solely by oars. These were then added to vessels made of overlapping planks (‘clinker-built’) to create longships, swift shallow-drafted boats that could navigate coastal and inland waters and land on beaches.

Who was King Alfred the Great?

Exactly what first compelled bands of men to follow their local chieftain across the North Sea in these longships is unclear. It may have been localised overpopulation, as plots became subdivided to the point where families could barely eke out a living; it may have been political instability, as chieftains fought for dominance; or it may have been news brought home by merchants of the riches to be found in trading settlements further west. Probably it was a combination of all three. But in 793 that first raiding party hit Lindisfarne and within a few years further Viking bands had struck Scotland (794), Ireland (795) and France (799).

Their victims did not refer to them as Vikings. That name came later, becoming popularised by the 11th century and possibly deriving from the word vik, which in the Old Norse language the Vikings spoke means ‘bay’ or ‘inlet’. Instead they were called Dani (‘Danes’) – there was no sense at the time that this should refer only to the inhabitants of what we now call Denmark – pagani (‘pagans’) or simply Normanni (‘Northmen’).

The remains of a Viking longship

The remains of a Viking longship found at Gokstad in South Norway, c1920. 

When and where did the Viking begin to raid?

At first the raids were small-scale affairs, a matter of a few boatloads of men who would return home once they had collected sufficient plunder or if the resistance they encountered was too strong. But in the 850s they began to overwinter in southern England, in Ireland and along the Seine in France, establishing bases from which they began to dominate inland areas.

The raids reached a crescendo in the second half of the ninth century. In Ireland the Vikings established longphorts – fortified ports – including at Dublin, from which they dominated much of the eastern part of the island. In France they grew in strength as a divided Frankish kingdom fractured politically and in 885 a Viking army besieged and almost captured Paris.

In Scotland they established an earldom in the Orkneys and overran the Shetlands and the Hebrides. And in England an enormous Viking host, the micel here (‘great army’) arrived in 865. Led by a pair of warrior brothers, Halfdan and Ivar the Boneless, they picked off the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms of England one by one. First Northumbria, with its capital at York, fell to them in 866, then East Anglia, followed by the central English kingdom of Mercia. Finally, only Wessex, ruled by Alfred, remained. A pious bookworm, Alfred had only become king because his three more martial older brothers had sickened or died in battle in previous Viking invasions.

In early January 878 a section of the Great Army led by Guthrum crossed the frontier and caught Alfred by surprise at the royal estate at Chippenham. Alfred barely managed to escape and spent months skulking in the Somerset marshes at Athelney. It looked like the independence of Wessex – and that of England generally – might be at an end. But against the odds Alfred gathered a new army, defeated the Vikings at Edington and forced Guthrum to accept baptism as a Christian. For his achievement in saving his kingdom he became the only native English ruler to gain the nickname ‘the Great’.

For 80 years England was divided between the land controlled by the kings of Wessex in the south and south-west and a Viking-controlled area in the Midlands and the north. Viking kings ruled this region until the last of them, Erik Bloodaxe, was expelled and killed in 954 and the kings of Wessex became rulers of a united England. Even so, Viking (and especially Danish) customs long persisted there and traces of Scandinavian DNA can still be found in a region that for centuries was known as the Danelaw.

By the mid-11th century united kingdoms had appeared in Denmark, Norway and Sweden and the raids had finally begun to subside. There was a final burst of activity in the early 11th century when royal-sponsored expeditions succeeded in conquering England again and placing Danish kings on the throne there (including, most notably, Canute, who ruled an empire in England, Denmark and Norway, but who almost certainly did not command the tide to go out, as a folk tale alleges). Vikings remained in control of large parts of Scotland (especially Orkney), an area around Dublin and Normandy in France (where in 911 King Charles the Simple had granted land to a Norwegian chieftain, Rollo, the ancestor of William the Conqueror). They also controlled a large part of modern Ukraine and Russia, where Swedish Vikings had penetrated in the ninth century and established states based around Novgorod and Kiev.

This was not the full extent of the Viking world, however. The same maritime aggression that had caused them to plunder (and ultimately conquer) settled lands also led them to venture in search of unknown shores on which to settle. Vikings probably arrived in the Faroes in the eighth century and they used this as a stepping-stone to sail further west across the Atlantic.

In the mid-ninth century a series of Viking voyages came across Iceland and in the year 872 colonists led by Ingólf Arnarson settled on the island. They established a unique society, fiercely independent and owing no formal allegiance to the kings of Norway. It was a republic whose supreme governing body was, from 930, the Althing, an assembly made up of Iceland’s chief men which met each summer in a plain beside a massive cleft in a ring of hills in the centre of the island. It has a strong claim to be the world’s oldest parliament.

From Iceland, too, we have other vital pieces of evidence of the inventiveness of Viking societies. These include the earliest pieces of history written by Vikings themselves in the form of a 12th-century history of Iceland, the Íslendingabók, and the Landnámabók, an account of the original settlement of the island (with the names of each of the first settlers and the land they took).

But more important – and surprising for those who view of the Vikings is as one-dimensional warriors – is the collection of sagas known as the Íslendingasögur or Icelandic Family Sagas. Their setting is the first 150 years of the Viking colony in Iceland and they tell of often-troubled relations between the main Icelandic families. Alliances, betrayals, feuds and murders play out against the backdrop of a landscape in which features can still often be identified today. At their best, in tales such as Njál’s Saga or Egil’s Saga, they are powerful pieces of literature in their own right, and among the most important writing to survive from any European country in the Middle Ages.

Iceland was the location of another drama that highlights the transition of Viking societies away from warrior chieftainships. Christianity came later to Scandinavian Viking societies than to many other parts of Europe. Whereas France’s kings had accepted Christianity by the early sixth century and the Anglo-Saxon kings of England largely in the seventh, Christian missionaries only appeared in southern Scandinavia in the ninth century and made little headway there until Harald Bluetooth of Denmark accepted baptism in around 960. Harald had become Christian after a typical piece of Viking theatre: a drunken argument around the feasting table as to which was more powerful – Odin and Thor, or the new Christian God and his son, Jesus.

Iceland remained resolutely pagan, loyal to old gods such as Odin; the All Father; a one-eyed god who had sacrificed the other eye in exchange for knowledge of runes; and Thor, the thunder-god with his great hammer Mjölnir, who was also especially popular with warriors.

Iceland became Christian to avoid a civil war. Competing pagan and Christian factions threatened to tear the Althing apart and dissolve Iceland into separate, religiously hostile, states. At the Althing’s meeting in the year 1000 the rival factions appealed to Iceland’s most important official, the lawspeaker Thorgeir Thorkelsson. As a pagan he might have been expected to favour the old gods but, after an entire day spent agonising over the decision, he concluded that henceforth all Icelanders would be Christian. A few exceptions were made – for example the eating of horsemeat, a favoured delicacy that was also associated with pagan sacrifices, was to be permitted.

Iceland, too, was the platform from which the Vikings launched their furthest-flung explorations. In 982 a fiery tempered chieftain, Erik the Red, who had already been exiled from Norway for his father’s part in a homicide, was then exiled from Iceland for involvement in another murder. He had heard rumours of land to the west and, with a small group of companions, sailed in search of it. What he found was beyond his wildest imaginings. Only 300 kilometres west of Iceland, Greenland is the world’s largest island, and its south and south-west tip had fjords [deep, narrow and elongated sea or lakedrain, with steep land on three sides] and lush pastures that must have reminded Erik of his Scandinavian homeland. He returned back to Iceland, gathered 25 ship-loads of settlers and established a new Viking colony in Greenland that survived into the 15th century.

Erik’s son, Leif, outdid his father. Having heard from another Viking Greenlander, Bjarni Herjolfsson, that he had sighted land even further west, Leif went to see for himself. In around 1002 he and his crew found themselves sailing somewhere along the coast of North America. They found a glacial, mountainous coast, then a wooded one, and finally a country of fertile pastures that they named Vinland. Although they resolved to start a new colony there, it was – unlike either Iceland or Greenland – already settled and hostility from native Americans and their own small numbers (Greenland at the time probably had about 3,000 Viking inhabitants) meant that it was soon abandoned. They had, though, become the first Europeans to land in (and settle in) the Americas, almost five centuries before Christopher Columbus.

For centuries Erik’s achievement lived on only in a pair of sagas, The Saga of the Greenlanders and Erik the Red’s Saga. The location of Vinland, despite attempts to work out where it lay from information contained in the sagas, remained elusive. It was even unclear if the Vikings really had reached North America. Then, in the early 1960s, a Norwegian explorer Helge Ingstad and his archaeologist wife, Anne Stine, found the remains of ancient houses at L’Anse aux Meadows on Newfoundland in Canada. Fragments of worked iron (many of them nails, probably from a ship), which the native population did not possess the technology to produce, meant that it was soon clear this was a Viking settlement. Although perhaps too small to be the main Vinland colony, it was still astonishing confirmation of what the sagas had said. Leif Erikson’s reputation as a great explorer and discoverer of new lands was confirmed without doubt.

This might well have pleased him, for a man’s reputation was everything to a Viking. Quick wit, bravery and action were among the key attributes for a Viking warrior, but to be remembered for great deeds was the most important of all. The Hávamál, a collection of Viking aphorisms, contains much apt advice such as “Never let a bad man know your own bad fortune”, but most famous of all is the saying “Cattle die, kindred die, we ourselves shall die, but I know one thing that never dies: the reputations of each one dead”.

The reputation of the Vikings simply as raiders and plunderers has long been established. Restoring their fame as traders, storytellers, explorers, missionaries, artists and rulers is long overdue.

Philip Parker is author of The Northmen’s Fury: A History of the Viking World (Vintage, 2015). For more information, visit www.philipparker.net

Vikings

Extracts from the book - The Untold History of the Vikings

Martin J. Dougherty

Beginning in 789AD, the Vikings raided monasteries, sacked cities and invaded western Europe. They looted and enslaved their enemies. But that is only part of their story. In long boats they discovered Iceland and America (both by accident) and also sailed up the Seine to Paris (which they sacked). They settled from Newfoundland to Russia, founded Dublin and fought battles as far afield as the Caspian Sea. A thousand years after their demise, traces of the Vikings remain all the way from North America to Istanbul. They traded walruses with Inuits, brought Russian furs to Western Europe and took European slaves to Constantinople. Their graves contain Arab silver, Byzantine silks and Frankish weapons. In this accessible book, the whole narrative of the Viking story is examined from the eighth to the 11th century.



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What You Don’t Know About the Vikings
A good article from National Geographic.


Sunday, 8 December 2019

History

Lofoten geography and history




The first people came to Lofoten over 7,000 years ago. During the Stone Age, people made a living out of fishing and hunting. The Lofoten was covered with large pine and birch forests. There were deers, bears, reindeers, lynxes and beavers and the sea was full of fishes, seals and whales. Agriculture developed early. As early as 4,000 years ago, grain was harvested in Lofoten.


The Viking Age saw the emergence of several large chiefdoms. At Borg, in Vestvågøy, some remains of a chiefdom were found with the largest banquet hall known from the Viking era throughout the Nordic region. The building was 8.5 meters wide and 83 meters long. A reconstruction of the building was done at Borg. The Viking Museum at Borg is now open since June 1995. By Kabelvåg, there is a small town called Vågar which was the largest township in the North of Skandinavia during the Middle Ages.

The Lofoten Fisheries has been an important part of the Lofoten history. In year 860, King Alfred of England, wrote about stockfish that the Viking Ottar brought from Vágar in Lofoten. For King Øystein, fishing was so important that in 1107, he built a church in Storvågan, which was then the center of the Lofoten Fishery. He also built the first fishermens cabins that are mentioned in the saga, in the year 1120. Stockfish, produced from spawning cod was the most important production, and it was pretty much all over Europe. Italy is still the most important market for high-quality stockfish from Lofoten.

From the 1300s on, Lofoten paid taxes to Bergen. This was the beginning of a 600-year-long economic dominance, first exercised by the Hanseatic League, and later by their Norwegian executors. Changing times of famine and poverty were succeeded by periods of good years and great wealth. From the 1860s, came the great herring migrations that became the basis of growth, prosperity and immigration. The basis of today's settlement was established.
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Lofoten’s history revolves around fish. The population has always fished all year round, usually alongside running small farms. Yet it is the seasonal fishing for Norwegian cod that has been of the greatest importance. Every year from January to April, large numbers of skrei (Norwegian Arctic cod) migrate from the north to the marine areas around Lofoten in order to spawn. The fisheries that take place during these months have provided a living for the local people for centuries.

In Lofoten, we have found evidence of Stone Age people who subsisted on fishing 6000 years ago. Finds have revealed that they used fishing weights and fishing hooks made from bone and horn. The area’s natural resources also formed the basis for one of Northern Norway’s largest and most powerful chieftain’s residences during the Viking Age. Borg is the site of the world’s largest longhouse, which is no less than 83 metres long. Explore the reconstructed chieftain’s house and travel more than 1000 years back in time. 

Lofoten’s main fish product is stockfish. The conditions in the archipelago are perfect for naturally drying fish of the very highest quality. As long ago as the year 1100, the fishing and production of stockfish was so important that it led to the development of Vágar - the first Middle Age town in Northern Norway. The spawning fish arrived in such enormous quantities that there was more than enough to go round for the population of Lofoten. As a result, fishermen from across the whole of Northern Norway flocked to Lofoten to take part in the Lofoten Fishery. They had to sail and row great distances in open boats, often traditional Nordland boats. As many as 30,000 men would arrive during the fishery season. In the fishing villages, they would hire fisherman’s cabins for accommodation, and they would also sell their catches from there too. The traditional fisherman’s cabin dates back at least 1000 years. Find out more about this in Kabelvåg, where you can visit the local squire’s residence with its fisherman’s cabins, and experience life underwater at Lofoten Aquarium. 

The fisherman’s cabins were hired out by the local squire. These squires had exclusive rights to trade and buy and dry fish. Stockfish were transported to traders in Bergen, before being sold on across Europe. Stockfish has been a vital export product which has generated substantial revenues for the Norwegian economy. Thanks to the stockfish trade, the fishing villages had economic and cultural contact with the outside world. The Norwegian Fishing Village Museum at Å in Lofoten will give youa fascinating insight into the importance of the fishing villages, through visits to many houses in the fishing village, both with and without a guide. Don’t forget the baker’s either! Stockfish has its own museum in Å. The Norwegian Telecom Museum in Sørvågen presents the fascinating history of communication. The history of the fisherman-farmer is also worth taking in, and a visit to Skaftnes farm in particular is recommended. 

The unique nature and strong cultural traditions of Lofoten have attracted many artists. Over the past 150 years, Lofoten has been portrayed by artists in a huge variety of genres and there are many art galleries and craft outlets in the area. Kaare Espolin Johnsen, one of Northern Norway’s celebrated artists, chose to set up his gallery in Kabelvåg. 

Fish are still important in Lofoten to this day. The fishing methods, production processes and fish sales may all have changed, but the principal product remains the same: skrei/ cod and stockfish. In Lofoten, you can get close to history. You will find fisherman’s cabins and fish drying racks side by side with modern technology in modern settlements. Track down the history and prepare to be amazed by the scope of the fisheries and the importance of skrei.

Thursday, 5 December 2019

Links

Lofoten Islands: The Complete Guide to Norway’s Northern Paradise



Lofoten climate

The Lofoten Islands lie at latitude 68˚N, well inside the Arctic Circle. However their climate is warmer than might otherwise be expected, due the the warm water from the Norwegian Current, an extension of the North Atlantic Current, which in turn comes from the Gulf Stream.



Harstad is just north of Lofoten. The water temperatures in June are shown here. 






Tide range. 
Bodø. June 2020

DayHigh
Low
High
Low
HighPhaseSunriseSunsetMoonriseMoonset

Mon 153:09 AM CEST 1.04 m9:07 AM CEST 2.03 m3:47 PM CEST 0.77 m10:03 PM CEST 1.97 m2:19 AM CEST3:16 PM CEST
Tue 164:08 AM CEST 0.99 m10:04 AM CEST 2.04 m4:34 PM CEST 0.72 m10:52 PM CEST 2.07 m2:12 AM CEST4:48 PM CEST
Wed 174:58 AM CEST 0.91 m10:55 AM CEST 2.08 m5:15 PM CEST 0.66 m11:34 PM CEST 2.18 m2:06 AM CEST6:25 PM CEST
Thu 185:42 AM CEST 0.81 m11:39 AM CEST 2.13 m5:53 PM CEST 0.60 m1:58 AM CEST8:09 PM CEST
Fri 1912:12 AM CEST 2.28 m6:23 AM CEST 0.72 m12:19 PM CEST 2.18 m6:30 PM CEST 0.54 m1:48 AM CEST10:06 PM CEST
Sat 2012:48 AM CEST 2.37 m7:02 AM CEST 0.64 m12:56 PM CEST 2.22 m7:07 PM CEST 0.50 m1:33 AM CEST
Sun 211:21 AM CEST 2.44 m7:39 AM CEST 0.58 m1:33 PM CEST 2.26 m7:44 PM CEST 0.48 mNew Moon
Mon 221:56 AM CEST 2.50 m8:17 AM CEST 0.53 m2:10 PM CEST 2.29 m8:22 PM CEST 0.49 m
Tue 232:31 AM CEST 2.53 m8:56 AM CEST 0.50 m2:50 PM CEST 2.30 m9:00 PM CEST 0.53 m
Wed 243:08 AM CEST 2.53 m9:37 AM CEST 0.49 m3:32 PM CEST 2.29 m9:42 PM CEST 0.58 m5:03 AM CEST2:15 AM CEST
Thu 253:48 AM CEST 2.52 m10:21 AM CEST 0.49 m4:18 PM CEST 2.27 m10:27 PM CEST 0.66 m7:16 AM CEST1:56 AM CEST
Fri 264:32 AM CEST 2.49 m11:10 AM CEST 0.51 m5:08 PM CEST 2.23 m11:18 PM CEST 0.75 m9:17 AM CEST1:45 AM CEST

Wednesday, 4 December 2019

Cruising the Lofoten Islands in northern Norway

We have a plan!


Bruce and Annie Stewart are going on a skippered charter boat around the Lofoten Islands in North Norway, between 15th-26th June 2020. We have arranged to join them.





Bruce & Annie

A further addition to the crew are our friends Brian Parsonage and Meredith Hinds.


Meredith & Brian

The organisation running the cruise is called Rubicon 3.

We are booked on the cruise June 15 – 26.



Being above the Arctic Circle, we will be there during the 'midnight sun'.
Midnight Sun: 25 May – 17 July


Itinerary

This is a typical itinerary for a 14-day Lofotens adventure starting and ending in Bodø. If you are starting or ending in Tromsø you will have a very slightly different itinerary on some days.


Day 1: Welcome aboard in Bodø
Join the boat between 1200 and 2000hrs (the closer to 1200 the better but we know flights and such like don’t always work like that, so don’t worry!) Get your belongings packed away and relax. There’s plenty to do in the future but right now it’s about relaxing, finding your way around the boat and enjoying the surroundings.

Day 2: Time to learn the ropes en route to Landegode
Today is all about getting up to speed with the boat. Whether you are a complete novice or more experienced sailor, everyone benefits from detailed introductions, safety briefings and training sessions. You will have two highly experienced instructors to guide you through every aspect that you need to know to have a great sailing holiday. By lunchtime we should be casting off the lines, hoisting the sails and working through all the key sailing manoeuvres such as tacking and gybing, reefing and knot tying! By the end of the day everyone on board should feel comfortable with the basics – even though there’s more to learn and practice every day. We’ll probably moor at the stunning southern tip of Landegode overnight, catch some fresh fish and maybe even have a BBQ ashore.



Days 3-4: Sail to and explore Reine in the Lofotens
It’s a lovely 60nm sail now across the bay to the Lofotens and the bucolic village of Reine. This looks like it has been taken from a picture postcard and is always a huge favourite. From here we can take the inland ferry to the western edge of the island where there are some wonderful hikes and spectacular views across the Lofoten mountains.



Reine


Hiking maps available from Hiking Lofoten

Day 5: Nusfjord
Now we head north to Nusfjord. Hidden away between towering cliffs, we love this little outpost. It is one of Norway’s oldest and best preserved fishing villages.


Days 6-7: Digermulen 
(I suspect a typo here; it would be logical to go to Skrova before Digermulen. Digermulen is north-east of Skrova, not the other way around. Dave)

Tonight we’ll maybe head for the anchorage at Digermulen.  This is so hidden away and an absolutely magical  place to spend the night. We may well spend the next day here, just hiking, fishing and making the most of this area.


Day 8: Skrova
A little more north east today as we head for the anchorage at Skrova. Once we head ashore, we’ll probably BBQ the day’s catch and then you can hike up the hill for some really lovely views.



Days 9-11: Raftsund and Trollfjord
We are now into the amazing Raftsund, a narrow channel with wonderful cliffs either side. We’ll head into Trollfjord on the west side, home to, you guessed it, Norway’s trolls. If the weather is good we may spend the night there and hike up the mountain for some more amazing views and photos. There are some other wonderful anchorages near here.

Days 12-13: Exploring the coast south to Kjerringøy
As we head back toward Bodø, we have two days of idyllic sailing and exploring and Kjerringøy is the most beautiful of little fishing ports where we can stop for the night before heading back to Bodø, our final destination.


Day 14: Debrief, clean up and goodbyes
It’s always amazing how quickly everyone has become firm friends and the boat and its routines seem so familiar. Yet it’s time to wrap it all up and head home. We’ll get the boat back to how we found it, sign logbooks, exchange emails and disembark by 1200hrs.